Barbera Vineyards, Castelnuovo Calcea

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BRAIDA DI GIACOMO BOLOGNA

The late Giacomo Bologna was one of the first producers to age his Barbera in small French oak, thus changing the image of Barbera from simple, high acid quaffing wine to that of a serious, ageworthy red wine. The Bricco dell'Uccellone is perhaps the most famous Barbera d'Asti made today; this single vineyard wine has become more elegant in recent years, a welcome sign. The Bricco della Bigotta is another great Barbera in a similar style, while the Barbera "Ai Suma" is a powerful, ripe wine made from late harvest grapes.

 

PIO CESARE

This historic estate located in the middle of the town of Alba, produces a very good Barbera d'Alba and a wonderful single vineyard offering called "Fides" meaning "faith", as this is in the style of old clone Barberas. Full-bodied, this has a great expression of terroir and is unlike many of the super ripe, over oaked Barberas made today.

 

TENUTA GARETTO

The energetic Alessandro Garetto has been producing top Barbera d'Asti only since 1997, but has risen quickly to join the list of best Barbera producers. Three separate botttlings are made: "Tra Neuit e Di", which is a traditional, high-acid Barbera with charming fruit, "In Pectore", a middle-weight Barbera with large and small oak aging and "Fava", a superstar Barbera with deeply concentrated fruit that is aged only in small oak. A nice overview of where Barbera has been and where it is going.

 
Alessandro Garetto

PRUNOTTO

From the simple charm of the "Fiulot" Barbera d'Asti to the richer and riper bottlings such as "Pian Romauldo" (Barbera d'Alba) and "Costamiole" (Barbera d'Asti), this producer is one of the more consistent with Barbera. Nice chocolate and plum flavors in the "Pian Romauldo", which is aged in large and small oak.

 

PICO MACCARIO

This mid-sized producer makes three separate Barbera d'Asti: the "Berro" has tasty strawberry fruit, the "Lavignone", aged only in stainless steel, is richer with more herbal character, while the "Tre Roveri" has ripe fruit and offers beautiful spicy Barbera characteristics. The 2003 "Tre Roveri" was one of the finest Barbera d'Asti from that very hot growing vintage.

 

TERRE DA VINO

You might be surprised to find this very large producer included here, but the various bottlings of Barbera are excellent &endash; and fairly priced. My favorites are two Barbera d'Asti, the "La Luna e I Falo" and the "Croere" bottlings, both of which display flavors of ripe black fruit and chocolate backed by a nicely balanced finish.

 

VIETTI

Winemaker Luca Currado lavishes as much attention on his offerings of Barbera as he does with his Barolos &endash; a rare concept! From the pleasant spice and light tannins of the entry-level Barbera d'Alba "Tre Vigne" to the tremendous concentration of the Barbera d'Asti "La Crena" and Barbera d'Alba "Scarrone", the Vietti Barberas represent one of the very finest portfolios with this varietal. A real treat is the Scarrone "Vigne Vecchie" from 80 plus year-old vines, which is a powerhouse with the stuffing and structure to age for 12-15 years.

 

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